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Maruti Suzuki Desert Storm 2016: A Celebratory Wrap Up in Jodhpur

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In the last post, I wrote about my day out in the desert, watching rallyists in action at the 2016 Maruti Suzuki Desert Storm rally in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. In the 6th and final leg of the rally, as the competitors raced towards the finishing point at Sankda in Bhilwara district of the state, the media covering the rally made their way to Jodhpur, where the rally was scheduled to culminate officially and the winners were to be felicitated.

Stage all set for celebrations

It was late in the evening when we arrived at the ITC WelcomHotel in Jodhpur and it was exciting to see a section of the hotel entrance and parking all decked up to welcome the racers and the winners among them. There was a lot of buzz about the Desert Storm rally, with other hotel guests too milling around the venue, looking froward to the celebratory champagne showers by the rally winners.

And this is how the evening panned out -

And the champagne showers begin

CS Santosh celebrating his big win. A treat it was to see him zoom down the tracks

While the champagne showers and celebrations went on till late in the night, it was at the Award Ceremony the next afternoon that the elaborate results in all categories where formally declared. This was a good opportunity to see the participating teams together and also connect hitherto nameless faces to names and understand their roles in the rally.

Time for awards and rewards

For me, the most amazing part of the award ceremony was not the prime winners, for after following the rally for 3 days, their names hardly came as a surprise. It was the many participants that left me awe-struck, for they looked most unlikely people to indulge in adventure sports like motor rallying. How looks deceive and how we stereotype people! It was a big lesson in not taking people at face value.

Ashwin Naik and Suresh Rana (2nd and 3rd from left) - winners of Desert Storm 2016 (Xtreme)

CS Santosh - Winner of Desert Storm 2016 (Moto)

Army team too showed its mettle on the tracks

While the rallyists were being felicitated inside, their winning machines had been put on display in one of the gardens. On one side stood Xtreme category winners Suresh Rana and Ashwin Naik's Maruti Suzuki Grand Vitara, with 1st Runner-up Amanpreet Ahluwalia and Virendar Kashyap's Maruti Gypsy giving it company. Close to them and being gawked at by one and all was Moto category winner CS Santosh's Suzuki RMX450Z Rally.

It was a delight to check out these mean machines from close quarters and marvel at the toil they undertook to emerge the leaders along with their riders. Displayed alongside these stars of the rally were fancy quad bikes that seemed to be catching every onlookers fancy.

Winning machines

CS Santosh's Suzuki RMX450Z Rally

A quad on display

Another one from Suzuki

And It's a wrap. Rally On!

So THIS is how the experience of covering the Maruti Suzuki Desert Storm 2016 panned out for me. Till now so far as I was concerned, motor rally was a distant sport, something relegated to the small columns of the sports pages of newspapers. It was a distant sport also because I had never really bothered to understand the nitty-gritty that goes into making rallying the phenomena that it is gradually becoming. The popularity of this sport is growing in India and all the laurels for rallying's exponential growth in the country goes to the passionate officials, rally marshals, rallyists and the crew members who are all working with great enthusiasm to take this sport forward.

Needless to say, rallying is a tough sport. It's not just about speed and stamina. Luck too plays a big role in determining how a race ends for a rallyist. There can be technical failures and errors beyond a rallyist's control that can mar his performance on the tracks. Mix a fine concoction of passion, speed, stamina, focus and luck, and it's then that you get an ace rallyist!

Covering the Desert Storm was a privilege and it was wonderful to see and understand this fascinating sport from such close quarters. Kudos to Team Northern Motorsports andMaruti Suzuki's motor-sports division for the precision with which this event was executed - with 200-plus participants, over 2000 kms of diverse Rajasthan terrain to be traversed and the energy-draining 43+degrees heat, only a team with single-minded dedication could have executed this rally with this exactness.


Tribal Museum, Bhubaneswar: A Delightful Collection of Tribal Heritage

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Bhubaneswar's Museum of Tribal Arts and Artifacts is efficiently maintained and managed, that too without any entry ticket, that you will want to applaud the management behind it. 

Located inside the Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes Research and Training Institute (SCSTRTI) campus in the city's Nayapalli area, this museum is a rich and intricately documented repository of the vibrant tribal heritage of Odisha.


The single storey museum building has five huge air-conditioned halls that exhibit paintings, clothes, jewelry, hunting and fishing equipment, weapons of offence and defence, household objects, agriculture implements, and dance and musical instruments of 62 identified tribes of Odisha. Every single exhibit on display has relevant information about it displayed on information tablets. Besides this there are audio-visual units where visitors can watch documentaries on various tribes. Each of the five halls also has representatives from the different tribes working on their native art and craft-work samples of which are available for purchase.

All five halls are manned by museum representatives who are well versed with information on artifacts on display and help with interaction with the tribals at work. In the spacious open air courtyard inside the museum building, several shrine replicas of different tribes have also been installed. These replica shrines give the visitors an idea about the esoteric modes of tribal worship, symbolized by elements of nature - stones, bamboo and carved wood.


Photography inside the halls as well as museum building is prohibited and as the visitors enter the museum reception area, they are asked to deposit their cameras (if they are carrying one), in a clean locker kept on one side.

While photography inside the halls is prohibited, click happy visitors will sure have an exciting time capturing the art on display around the museum complex. Right behind the museum building, in vast open area in the museum complex, are five large life-size replicas of huts of different tribes. First constructed in 1986, these tribal huts represent the Santhal, Juang, Gadaba, Saora and Kandha tribes. All 5 huts are built along with their tribe's shrine replicas.



The replicas huts are so intricately designed, decorated and maintained that they give impression of being real homes. Interestingly, these huts are also accessorized with a rich collection of all things that an average tribal household owns, to give visitors a though insight into their lives. Visitors are allowed to go inside the huts though photography inside is again prohibited.


Every nook and corner of this museum is decked up with beautiful tribal artwork - from outer walls to tree trunks, every space has been used up as a canvas. If you are in Bhubaneswar any time, do take out time for this delightful collection of tribal heritage. 

Fact-file:

Entry - free
Museum timings: 10am to 5pm
Closed on Monday and all Govt. of Odisha holidays


Desert Diva Queen Harish and Half a Night at Sam Sand Dunes

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I vaguely remember seeing Queen Harish dancing in a talent show on television.

Harish, a lanky young man from Rajasthan's Jaisalmer had appeared slightly nervous before the audition, but had morphed into a graceful female dancer on stage – taking the judges as well as the audience by surprise.


The elaborate costume, the bright makeup, perfectly arched eyebrows, the fluttering false eyelashes, the seductive smile, the self-assured mannerisms and the flavourful Rajasthan folk dance - everything was on point. It was no surprise that he passed the audition with flying colours, promising the judges with more entertainment in the next level of the talent hunt.

This random episode of the talent show, watched sitting on the family dinner table was promptly forgotten.

Cut to a pleasantly breezy April night in the middle of the Sam sand dunes in Jaisalmer.

Maruti Suzuki has organised a dune party for all part of the ongoing Desert Storm Rally. The idea is to give the participants some time off to relax and unwind post a grueling day under the hard sun. There’s candlelit sitting arrangement, with neat rows of large cushions laid out on the dunes, the makeshift bar is overflowing with beer and banter, the snacks counter is crowded, and the mellow tune of sarangi is wafting in from a low wooden stage set up at some distance.


Just as everyone starts to settle down with their drinks and food, and the loud banter gives way to soft conversations, the stage in the distance dazzles up with a glamorous arrival. Bright red sequined lehenga choli, matching bangles and other assorted jewelry, mascara-lined eyelashes complimenting the perfectly arched eyebrows, bright red lipstick and a smile seductive enough to soften the most hardened of hearts. One cursory glance at her and I go - hey this is the guy from that talent show!

Only this time, 'the guy' from the talent show is introduced to the audience as Jaisalmer’s pièce de résistance - Queen Harish.
Within minutes, Queen Harish warms up the guests with her quick wit and easy mannerisms, following it up with a lively audience interaction. The build up to her performance is perfect, and in no time she has us all in splits with her merry quips. Just when she is assured of everyone's attention on her, the talent at dancing and swirling is unleashed, leaving the gathering mesmerized. 

Rajasthani folk dance, belly dancing and improvised versions of popular Bollywood dance numbers, she shows us all. She swirls on her knees, causing many a wows to escape from the lips of awestruck audience. Throughout the performance, her persona keeps changing - from warm to naughty, depending on the song she is performing on. Only one element remains constant - her spunk. 
In between the splendid performance, she glides down the stage and beckons fellow blogger Manjulika and me to join her on stage. We are both amused and taken aback. But before we can say a polite no, she's upon us, her hands holding ours and gently guiding us towards the stage. 

Whoa. This is pretty unexpected. We shyly copy Queen's dance steps on the stage, taking cue from her subtle eye commands about the moves. We dance for a few minutes and then politely excuse ourselves. Back on our cushions, we have a good giggle about the experience. It's hard to believe that just a few minutes ago, we were on the stage dancing with the self-made desert diva. Gradually more people from the audience walk up and join the diva on stage.

As the night deepens, the dune party heads towards a wrap. Queen Harish and her troupe members are winding up but now there's crowd of selfie seekers waiting for her near the stage. Heading off from the party venue we catch a glimpse of Queen Harish patiently posing for selfies with her admirers. Half the night is gone but her energy and enthusiasm remains unbeaten.

Reflections

Back at the hotel, I google up Queen Harish. There are several news items about her transformation from a spindly young Rajasthani lad to desert diva Queen Harish. While Harish, the man, is a householder with 2 children and other family members to look after, his alter ego - the queen - is a taut-waisted woman with a penchant for the courtesan lifestyle. As the self-styled desert diva, she has performed across the world and is popular in the west as the 'Desert Drag Queen'. There are testimonials praising her showmanship and foreigners who have interacted with her gush about her charm and hospitality.

I read all the details, amazed at the fact that in a short span of few years, Queen Harish has become an inseparable part of most Jaisalmer itineraries. But the reasons behind this meteoric rise are obvious. While Queen Harish's dance is immensely entertaining, it's her affable manners and enterprising attitude that make her stand out in a crowd of other folk performers. So the next time you are in Jaisalmer, make sure you stop by at one of her performances and be enthralled by her nuanced dance moves and chuckle-some wisecracks.


The Mughal Sarai of Jajau

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Cruising down the smooth roads of NH 3 from Agra towards Gwalior, a hazy silhouette of minarets on the right side of the stretch near Dholpur breaks the monotony of a bland landscape. Focus hard against the glaring sun and the silhouette fades away giving way to a sharp image of slightly red sandstone minarets that hint at being part of a magnificent structure. For the heritage and architecture lovers, these are nothing sort of magnets attracting them to come and appreciated their presence.

A green board on the side of the road marks the name of the settlement as Jajau Sarai. The minarets and the word sarai are a combination potent enough to ensure a quick stopover.

Sarai's northern gateway

The northern gateway from the inside

Lovely specimen of Mughal architecture

Up close, the minarets look stately, part of a towering gateway standing grand amidst a cluster of whitewashed brick and plaster houses. Conversations with the curious onlookers from around the settlement reveal the indeed has a regal past, having been built during Aurangzeb's reign. Estimated to be around 500 years old, the minarets are the remnants of a grand sarai (rest house) constructed by the Mughals in the early 1600s.


Standing underneath the gateway arch

View from the room above

Another view of the passage below

Given their penchant for long journeys across their acquired territories, the Mughals built a number of sarais to rest while travelling. These sarais or motels as we might classify them today, also served as rest spots for the travelling caravans of merchants and Mughal soldiers. The historic Grant Trunk Road is dotted with ruins of several such sarais and this one was such campsite, built on a highway that led to Mughal territories down south.


The second gateway on the other end

The gateway seen from the highway is a part of two identical gateways of the sarai complex The second one is towards the other end of the complex, close to the Gambhir river (also called Utangan river) that irrigates the farmlands around the sarai. Both these gateways are artfully designed three storied structures, with airy rooms and balconies that face the complex and perhaps helped keep an eye on the going-ons inside the sarai. The walls are decorated with arabesque motifs and carvings typical of the early Mughal architecture.

View of the sarai interiors from the southern gateway

The haphazard construction inside the sarai complex

On the left is the three-domed mosque

Northern gateway seen from the other end

Typical of most such constructions, the layout plan of this sarai too had a large open courtyard with rooms around the peripheral wall. All of it is gone now, with the land encroached upon by the settlers who have built houses inside the once-walled complex. What remains besides the gateways is a three domed mosque which is still in use by the locals.

Gambhir river in the background

The new resident backing off after seeing visitors

Minaret with Gambhir river in the background

A train passes by

Walking around the sarai, with the curious kids from the neighbourhood joining in, the exploration soon turns into a walking tour with random hearsay information flying freely. They are fun to hang out with, the kids, and keep the motley group that they themselves are a part of, entertained with silly gimmickry. Once every nook and corner of the sarai is explored, the giggly bunch of kids suggests the baoli (step-well) near-by be explored too. An unexpected bonus.

The giggly bunch of local kids

Happy bunch

The stepwell, the construction period of which dates back to the same era as that of the sarai, looks grand but has been turned into a storage barn by the villagers. Clumsily stocked stacks of hay and scrubby overgrowth mar its beauty, but at the same time add an air of mystery to the forlorn looking structure. The sheen of the red sandstone speaks of better days, but it is in need of some sprucing up now. The locals are indifferent, for heritage conservation does not figure in their scheme of things. Of course keeping up with the elementary needs of life are a bigger priority.

The three-storied stepwell

Looking up and looking down

Eerie view

Climbing down to the bottom of the three storied step well, the chit-chat with the kids turns towards importance of protecting and preserving our heritage and the young ones promise to keep both the heritage structures clean and protected from nitwits who deface the walls of public monuments with ugly graffiti. With this promise it’s time to say goodbye to Jajau sarai.

Goodbye with sparkling smiles

The short stopover gave another delightful insight into the caravan sarais of the Mughal era. Hope the striking minarets continue to intrigue and beckon curious travellers to appreciate their bustling past.

Fact file:
Distance – 30-35kms from Agra towards Gwalior (NH3)
Nearby towns – Dholpur, Morena

Going Goa this Monsoon!

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Hello readers!

Many of you know that for the past few months, I have been travelling in Odisha. When I arrived here in the first week of April, summer was at its peak already and most Odia acquaintances had advised against visiting the state at this time, citing the unbearable heat and humidity as the reason.
But I came here anyway, and NOW, after spending almost three summer months travelling around the state, I have turned expert enough to advise curious friends and fellow travellers to avoid coming here in the summer months, particularly April and May.

So after months of scorching myself exploring one of the hottest parts of the country, surviving the extreme pre-monsoon heat and getting myself tanned 5 different shades of brown, I am ready to reward myself with a little rainy break and what better place to soak in the rain, than Goa! Cliché, you would say, but trust me, when it comes to experiencing Indian monsoons in all its splendour, few places can match Goa’s magnetism. If I were to put pointers on the best reasons to visit Goa in Monsoons, the following three reasons would cover it all.

1. Green Paradise

Photo courtesy: Sid Balachandran

With its exotic natural vistas and seductive charm, Goa keeps mesmerizing the visitors all the year round. However, during the monsoons, its seductive charm becomes tough to resist. Rain washes everything up, turning the land into a quintessential tropical paradise - with lush greenery reining all corners, swaying palm trees, shiny paddy fields, sparkling colourful houses, and so many shades of green all around.

2. Less Touristy

Photo courtesy: Uttpal Krushna

The icing on Goa’s 'tropical paradise' cake is the fact that it is less crowded this time of the year, thanks to the burgeoning seas and rolled up shacks. So for people like me, who are not too fond of the crowds, are not into water sports and wish to enjoy Goa at a leisurely pace, monsoons is the best time to be here. So lush landscape, choppy seas and a fewer people around...sounds just about right!

3. Seasonal Discounts

Photo courtesy: A's Holiday Resort

Given the fact the most tourists stay away during the monsoons, it’s the best time to make the most of the seasonal discounts available at most of the hotels in Goa. While Goa has no dearth of accommodations catering to all kinds of budget, many top rated hotel properties offer a stay that defines luxury and indulgence. And monsoons are just the right season to check out their special packages.

While these are my top reasons to pick Goa for a monsoon holiday, I can go on and on about its heritage treasures and cultural delights. May be in some another post. For now, I will leave you with this alluring photo from Goa monsoons last year. Ah, the lush tropical vibes. Enjoy!

Regional Museum of Natural History, Bhubaneswar: Visit for the Whale Skeletons

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Have you ever wondered what becomes of whales after they beach themselves or are washed up ashore, dead?

Have you ever wondered what happens to their decomposing smelling giant bodies once the swarm of curious onlookers get bored and go away?

To be honest, questions such as the ones I have shared here never crossed my mind either, in spite of the fact that I have read many a ‘dead whale washes ashore’ news stories and heard real life accounts from friends living around beach areas. But a visit to the Regional Museum of Natural History in Bhubaneswar not just triggered these questions but also provided answers to them.
Just as I saw the skeleton of a huge toothed whale, pop went the questions – where did they get the skeleton from? Did they kill whale and hauled it outside? Did it get caught in the fishing net? Was it dead already and so couldn’t swim away? What happens to the ones that get beached and die?
And I got all the answers right away.

Once the hullabaloo over the beached whale settles down, the dead specimen is taken over by the wildlife officials from where it is handed over to the Natural History Museums for research. The entire process of transferring the carcass to the museum location, cleaning it, studying it and making it 'museum-ready' is gory and long, and takes more than a year to complete.
Bhubaneswar's Regional Museum of Natural History has two whale skeletons- one of a toothed whale and the other of a baleen whale.

Besides the many new things I learnt here at the museum, difference between various types of whales was the most engaging. Like the difference between a toothed whale and a baleen whale - toothed whales, as the name suggests, have teeth, whereas the baleen whales use the baleen system or baleen plates to filter out food from the water they gulp. One of the photos shows the baleen plates.
Other than the two whale skeletons, the collection of exhibits at the museum is average. The place is is filled with stuffed animals and reptiles displayed in jars, and there are some rhino skeletons too, but there’s hardly anything on plants and diverse ecosystem of the state. Besides the whale skeletons, the only other exhibit that got me curious was the preserved body of a pangolin - for am yet to see a pangolin for real, and this exhibit gave me an idea about to expect. How intriguing this specie looks! Do check out the photos.
While the number of exhibits in the Regional Museum of Natural History is limited, the museum complex is well maintained and looked after. Also there’s no entry ticket and photography is allowed inside exhibit halls. While I enjoyed learning about whales and pangolin at the museum, wish they take measures to add more exhibits to their collection, for it would sure go a long way in enriching visitors’ curiosity about Odisha’s rich and diverse range of flora and fauna.

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